Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
